Monday, June 25, 2012

Book 1:2 - Formentera to Barcelona



What would make a young loving wife and mother rise at two a.m. and kiss her twenty months old baby child goodbye, not knowing if she would ever hold this treasure, this one beautiful thing in her life, ever again?  To venture away from a foreign island to even more foreign and unknown lands, far, far from home?  I don’t know how I did it, but I did.  Looking back the ice still clutches my heart.  A battered wife, I was in a state of reactive psychosis - a sleepwalker in a cold hell.  Leaving my child where she would be secure, knowing I could not defend her in my confused abused state.  Nor would I ever divide our family by snatching her from her father.  It was Solomon’s Sword.  I was the dummy mummy.  Fooled by a system I could not combat. I needed space to think. So did he, but I had to leave to give it to him. Given his past behaviour I had no guarantee our marriage would survive, but it was a gamble I had to take. I was not going to live with the lies and brutality another minute. I had to find the Love and the Reason and Meaning of It All.
  
Yes, after leaving my husband and baby girl on Formentera, in the cold two a.m. morning after my twenty-eighth birthday, my heart suspended in some cryogenic force field to be revived by the kiss of love when I returned – or so I had then so vainly hoped, I walked out of that remote Spanish island finca into the blackness of deepest night, stumbling along the rough dusty track to the waiting bus from La Mola to the port of La Savina to catch the early ferry across to the nearby island of Ibiza. In the pre-dawn hours I wandered the empty sleeping streets of the Ibiza port, wondering what I was doing, numb and distraught. Then almost sleep-walking, I boarded the dawn ferry to Barcelona on the Spanish mainland. 

Which was where suddenly life upended on me and my path and destination became clear.
  
Because on that Barcelona bound ferry was Tom.  Osiris. Satya Pal.  Brother Thomas.  Abdullah.  He took a different name to suit the religion of whatever cultural situation he found himself in.  He was presently in Brother Thoma mode, to suit the Spanish Christianity. We were instantly attracted to each other. A cosmic magnetism that endured and except for a few hours here and there, we didn’t leave each other’s side for the next 18 months, sharing many adventures as we walked in Morocco then across half the planet all the way to India. 

Tom was, he said, the motherless son of a wealthy Californian/Swedish father. He had run away from home at twelve and split, as he put it, to Maui in Hawaii where, as a surfie gremlin, he  survived by begging off tourists until he was sixteen.  Then he made his way to Sweden in search of his ancestors where he lived as a student in Malmo, the university town.  In his  twenties he flew to India where he spent some months studying in ashrams and became a pilgrim of “The Way”.
  
Now 25, he was the vision of a Nordic prince.  At over 6 ft he was a standout in any crowd, striding along with a fast direct gait as if he owned the world, tall lean and proud, shoulders back, long shining gold blonde hair swinging,  drawing the eyes while at the same time as his eyes saw far over the heads of other mere shorter mortals able to avoid potential dangers while finding the best route to his destination. Those far-seeing dancing eyes were such a sky blue I felt I could swim in them and from his laughing mouth a deep manly voice seemed to embrace the word Love in nearly every sentence.  He looked so healthy, so clean, in light Indian white flowing cotton long shirt and loose pyjama pants. Across one shoulder hung a cream Ghandi Khadi-cloth hand spun blanket and a set of small Indian Tabla drums.  The other supported an Ibizencan basket containing all his worldly possessions with, and I suppose what clinched his creds for me, a surfer’s hand-board protruding.  Only a dedicated surfer would carry a hand-board among life’s necessities. He had just arrived back in Europe, was on his way to Morocco to surf, but wanted to return to India to live as a sadhu.

I was immediately charmed by his ethos, his air of freedom, of being a real traveller and a surfer and by his intense fast-talking spiel, preaching the religion of Freedom and Love and Universal Truth for all.  Was I a sucker? Let’s just call it vulnerability. Love at first sight for us both ! 

As I later came to realise he was a hippy preacher man like Johnny Appleseed, spreading the seeds of the New Age doctrines as he travelled across the planet, giving him an open sesame to so many receptive doors at a time when great change was shifting values. Religions had not delivered and the empty voids needed filling with Love, with renewed Hope and Joy. As I also later found, people everywhere got confirmation of their inner need to be validated in this new creed he spread to anyone who would listen. In shops, bus queues, street corners, in parks, to drivers we got lifts from, even the police who would come to check him out – it was what he did, what he said. His M.O, his credo, his magic carpet ride through all strata of societies, reaching all classes & creeds. Many found him simply a harmless curiosity and invited him home to show the wife and kids. But almost without exception when he left he had given them the gift of a new way of thinking to ponder, even if they were not convinced or converted.

But when I first met him, as we stood at the ferry rail watching in fascination the magical light show as the strobing first rays of the rising sun reflected fire from windows on  the receding pink and gold glowing island of Ibiza, I had no idea who or what he was.  I only knew he was a fascinating guy going, like me, to Morocco.  I wasn’t fazed by his wild life story - it seemed to me that if that was what had happened to him it was just him coping with his world, just as I was trying to cope with mine.  I simply had no idea. But as we got closer his positive philosophy and warm affectionate presence lifted me out of what could have been a terminal depression and gave my soul wings. I could relate to everything he said. Yes, we are Love. Everything is natural. By giving Love we get back Love. Children of the Great Mother/Father, each of us a vehicle of Joy if we let Love into our hearts. We are all One.  And so on.  Well I do chuckle at all that now. But then as an ideology it had legs and we were walking, fast and free.

I had a destination a quest.  In my crazy twisted head I had a wild notion that somewhere in Morocco, perhaps in the Atlas Mountains, I could find lost Atlantis, or some feeling of Atlantis. It represented that advanced Utopian spiritual super race I felt we were all once part of. I was such a dreamer!  More practically, I had heard of legendary good surfing on the Moroccan Atlantic coast. 

My dreams had been fuelled by reading the stories of gutsy British gentlewomen like Gertrude Bell and Freya Stark - adventurous women who walked the Pyrenees, lived in isolated Iranian harems, married chiefs on Melanesian islands, explored Mesopotamia by camel or lived with nomadic Bedouin.  I decided I would  buy a donkey to carry my gear and walk the Atlas mountains to see for myself what the myths and legends of Atlantis, supposedly once part of northwest Africa, felt like in real time experience.   

All this fell into place in my mind as I wandered the pre-dawn streets of Ibiza, waiting to catch the ferry connection to Barcelona. If I was going to have time out from my marriage I was determined it was not going to be sitting in a bar in Barcelona crying into my vino.  I was sure my little baby daughter would tame the beste sauvage and bring my husband to see the reality of my dream as one family and the need to cherish each other.  He just needed time to relocate that dream of love we once shared.   We were a long way from home and our clean surfing lifestyle.  London had twisted us both beyond recognition.  The changes that more than two years of travelling had brought about in each of us needed to be looked at.  To me the marriage was intact, but needed real glue.  Time out would make him see the error of his ways and what real values should be for a father and husband.  Or so I deludedly thought as I locked onto this fey companion of the road fate had dealt me and battled with my inner demons. 

The idea of Atlantis needed to be put to the test.  I needed to know the Truth. To start from a core of real testable Truth starting with our origins I needed to differentiate between mythos and logos.  It seemed I was destined to do this thing.  Of course I knew very little about evolution, then. Having left school at 15 due to the family’s need for my income, my knowledge base was pathetic, riddled with romantic nonsense that needed sorting.  The opportunity, the means, the reason and the right companion all came together on the Ibiza ferry as if by divine intent or magic and I did not look back.  I was on the road.  Sucked into a magnetic energy, a common dream scenario that has enmeshed many before and since.  Legends of the road to Morocco, of Paul and Jane Bowles, William Burroughs,  Jack Keruac,  Allan Ginsberg.  Existentialist poets who came to inhale the ethos and the kif.  But with my own magical supernatural overlay.  It did not occur to me that these other writers were sometimes seen as degenerate reactionaries - paedophiles, Nancy Boys and junkies.  I only heard the call of the intellect, not the lusts of base flesh or the whining seductions of chemical annihilation.  With my need to make a better world I would follow the Pied Piper to Hell and back if I thought it would give us the Truth

I also thought that in Morocco I could find a quiet retreat near the surf  where I could practise my yoga, meditation and macrobiotic diet to make a better me without the sneering brutal husband who saw my interests in Jung, Eliade, Zen and Tibetan teachings as “mystic bullshit”, some heretic betrayal of all that it meant to be a “real Australian”.  That was one part of my dream, to find the truth in those ways of thinking.  The other involved my screaming inner desire to expatiate my energies in surfing big waves. So I got out my map and, tracing a possible route, I put it to Tom that together we could walk on quest for Atlantis and good surf where the Atlas Mountains fall into the Atlantic. We could purchase a donkey to carry our bags so we could walk free, starting out from Essouira walking south along the Barbary coast towards Agadir. 

Being a Californian surfer, Tom liked the idea.  And he liked me.  He liked me a lot and took very good care of me as we journeyed down the coast of Spain and into Morocco via Tangiers and Marrakech.  He seemed to know a lot of people in places we stopped.  Years of working the trade routes.  It just didn’t occur to me that this fey hippie godling was any kind of operator. I was delighted that he had made so many friends in his previous travels through this region. I was so trusting, under his spell, captured by his caring attention in my shredded mental state, the grief biting deep, the guilt and pain torturing me to madness and psychotic episodes.   I retreated into an inner cocoon world, barely noticing the passing Spanish scenery, but finding myself suddenly in another of Tom’s friends’ pocket worlds when we came to rest each night.

The kif we shared helped.  The soul medicine of the bereaved.  The virgin princess had no idea that it was all illegal and fraught with horrific penalties. But then  Alice had yet to step through the Looking Glass.

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